Monday, November 17, 2008

The Yorkshire Dales Part the First, or Emily Bronte was so right.

I went with the International 16 to Hardraw in Yorkshire.  We stayed at a lovely place called Harris House.  It was a bit chilly most of the time, but the sun was shining the whole time we were there, so I think it cured my Manchester blues.  I also feel much better, having almost completely recovered from my strep throat-with-achy-joints malaise.  Anyway, it was in the middle of nowhere, but it was easily the most beautiful middle of nowhere I have ever been.  On Saturday I woke up early (I am the last morning person, I know), and I saw the sun come up over the dales* and autumn trees and sheepdogs herding sheep, and it was breathtaking.  I told Sam, our coordinator and fearless leader, that this was the England I came to see.  

To recap a bit of our experiences, we drove the two hours Friday night and stayed up late (well, they stayed up late, I went to bed at 2) eating delicious food prepared by Ulka.  The next morning I got up early, washed all the dishes, cleaned the common room, read three chapters of my book, made coffee, got dressed and took a shower before I ever saw another soul awake.  Ulka made Indian pancakes (more like omelets) for breakfast, and although I was hesitant to try them, I ended up eating three.  Five minutes later*, we set off across the fells* to go to Hawes/Wensleydale to the Creamery, home of Wallace and Gromit.  By the time we got there, my inflamed joints were hurting terribly.  We tasted lots of delicious cheeses and went through a small museum.  I bought a bottle of Sloe Gin* and some cheese and a poster of Wallace and Gromit.  Since I was so uncomfortable (and a couple other people didn't want to walk back), Sam went back and got the van.  While we were waiting, I ate a big bowl of strawberry ice cream from the creamery, and it was delicious.  

Saturday night proceeded much like Friday, except we went to the pub next door.  The Green Dragon Inn has been around for about 400 years and is the most amazing pub I've ever seen.  All stone with wooden seats and benches and fireplaces and warm rugs.  Sam has lived in England his entire life, and he says it's the best pub he's ever been in, so I imagine that's quite the compliment.  I drank several pints of their homemade cider.  I finally went to bed at three (still the first asleep though).  Sunday morning was pretty much like Saturday morning.  I washed all of the (tons and TONS) of dishes.  About five minutes after noon, we went through the Green Dragon to Hardraw Scaur, England's tallest single drop waterfall.  It was the waterfall that Kevin Costner swam in during Robin Hood: Prince of Thieves.  Then, I ate a Yorkshire pudding with roast beef and vegetables.  It was delicious.  

Finally, I coordinated the housecleaning (which took exactly 45 minutes, thankyouverymuch), and we left just as it was getting dark.

*Dales - river valleys surrounded by vales (which are actually mountains)
  Five minutes - In England, with a group of all foreigners, this can mean anywhere from 20 minutes to three hours.  For example, "It'll take five minutes to get there" really means it'll take however long it takes.  Also, "We're leaving in five minutes" means "We're leaving whenever, so don't bother putting your boots on".
  Fells - Hilly pastureland
  Sloe gin - a divine liqueur made from these plummy-like fruits, gin, and sugar.  Delicious.

Here are some of the picture (the remainder of which I will put in a subsequent post):  
Picture of Sam (green shirt), Dragos, Paul and Annis at breakfast.  Taken at noon.
This is the river that originates above the Hardraw Scaur.

Harris House, our humble home in Hardraw.

From the Garden at Harris House, some fells.  They're all about as pretty as this.

The farm across from Harris House, and a man walking a baby in a pram.

The beginning of our walk to Hawes/Wensleydale.  This is the least muddy part of the entire walk.

Actually, the road is the least muddy part.  Isn't this beautiful?
I would totally marry a sheep farmer to get to live here forever. [My mum begins fervently praying for any and all sheep farmers to stay at least 500 yards away from me.]


For the record, I would also marry someone who owned a creamery, just for the free cheese/ice cream.

More pictures to come.

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